FRIDAY-
11p.m. -Wrap up with work.
11:45p.m. -Start driving to Avon.
SATURDAY
2:10 a.m. -Get lost in Avon and drive around and around round abouts.
2:30 a.m. -Find John and Erin's new house. Swap cars. John starts driving and I sleep in the back.
4:?? a.m. -Grand Junction stop.
6:30 a.m. -Arrive at Castle Valley get out and start hiking.
8:00 a.m. -Rack up and John begins mega-long first pitch of N. Face of Castleton.
12:15 p.m. -Top out. Give John shit for a minor breakdown, but secretly thank God I didn't have to lead that last heinous pitch.
12:25 p.m. -We try a simulrapp.
12:27 p.m. -I decide simulrapping is sweet.
1 p.m. -Arrive at Fine Jade in time to watch a party of three block the route.
2 p.m. -Arrive at Honeymoon Chimneys and promptly start whining that it looks like nasty off width.
2:10 p.m. -Still whining.
2:15 p.m. -Pony up.
3:00 p.m. -After a lot of cussing I accomplish half of the pitch and demand to be lowered. I'm now exhausted, sweaty and shaking.
3:10 p.m. -John Lie backs the off width and the Chimney opens up with ample protection and easier moves.
3:30 p.m. -The rope get stuck on second I take a big TR whipper and have to jug on tiblocs then proceed to lead the next unprotectable 70 feet of chimney. Very spooky, very cool.
4:30 p.m. -John starts complaining that he's cramping up, but the next pitch looks nasty and I don't want to do it.
6:?? p.m. -We swing the last pitch to the top.
7 p.m. -Darkness is now approaching as we simulrapp back inside the very dark chimney- cave and eventually to the bottom in pitch blackness.
8 p.m. -After repeated stubbed toes we find our headlamps and chug the rest of our water reserves before starting the brutal hike out.
9 p.m. -My spirits are high although the hike is very brutal and I think I may be hallucinating. John is complaining of dehydration. I half fall down the scree when I believe a white wolf is stalking me. Yeah I was tripping out.
10 p.m. -Back in camp, no fire, no beer, no hot food, no speaking. Just calories and liquids and sleep in the Subaru.
SUNDAY
6 a.m. -Consciousness reveals a puzzled look on John's face after I was touching his face. Oh my God; are we spooning? I've been so lonely lately.
9 a.m. -Up and moving. As we load up, a friendly conversation reveals our plans for Sister Superior. Unbeknownst to us a large group of climbers leaves camp quietly.
10 a.m. -Road Closures-Moab Marathon? Head scratching ensues.
10:30 a.m. -We arrive at an impassable washout and it is hotter than blazes and oh shit there are like ten kids passing us to get on Jah Man.
12:30 p.m. -We've given up hope of doing another climb today. There are three parties on Jah Man and two waiting. We wait.
1:30 p.m. -Waiting.
2 p.m. -Waiting.
2:30 p.m. -We smoke the first two pitches... Waiting. The other climbers are a bunch of kids out of Gunnison; nice, but slow.
2:45 p.m. -As is my style I switch pitches so John has to do the crux. Sucker.
3 p.m. -Thin steep hands for the next next pitch. Awe man! Weak.
3:30 p.m. -We top out and the gunny crew is still hanging out. The gears start turning and as soon as they offer us a spot on their 70-meter rapp we're already stacked and clipped in and gone to a far better ledge.
4 p.m. -We walk out ahead of the others and head back to the car in perfect weather. I officially end the 2009 climbing season.
